Opportunities Today : April 2006 Issue

Exploring Egypt the Compact Travels Way...by VINI MOTWANI... Director Compact Travels

 

Amazing Temples en route to Luxor

It was day four of our tour and our boat halted at Kom Ombo where we were to disembark to see the Sobek and the Haroeris temple. Kom Ombo is 43 kilometers north of Aswan and we arrived late in the evening to see the temple which lies on the East Bank of Nile and is 12 kilometers away from the city of Aswan.

 

The temple at Kom Ombo is a Greek Roman temple. The temple is believed to have been built on an old temple by Queen Hatshepsut during the 18th Dynasty. The temple is supposed to be as old as 200 BC and is dedicated to two gods Sobek, the crocodile god who used to be worshipped in the pre-dynastic times and the god Haroeris that is Horus, the solar gold of war. The temple was constructed at the time of Plotemis VII-XII and even today you can see a crocodile mummy which is preserved in the chapel of Hathor located at the right side of the temple entrance.

 

After having soaked in some more history and having seen one of the most amazing sunsets, we embarked on our boat to sail to our next halt which would be early morning at Edfu to see the Horus Temple. On embarking that evening, it was Nubian night on the cruise boat and the Nubian dancers enthralled us with their talent and it also gave us an insight into the cultural life of the Nubians. The following morning we moved to Edfu and at around 0700 hours we disembarked and took a horse carriage to visit the temple of the Falcon headed god Horus.

 

Horu(s) was originally the god of light whose eyes were associated with the sun and moon. The Horus temple was built during the reign of Ptolemy VI. Although the temple is not one of the best preserved ones, it is supposed to be the second largest temple after the Karnak Temples which is at Luxor. The impressive feature of the temple is that there are carvings and engravings in hieroglyphics which is the ancient Egyptian script and a large part of the same unfortunately has been defaced over the years. At the entrance of the temple are two very beautiful black granite statues on either side of the entrance depicting Horus in the form of the falcon.

 

After spending an hour or so at the temple, we took the horse carriage back to head towards our boat to reach in time for a sumptuous breakfast before sailing further towards Esna. We were told that to cross the Esna Lock it would take as long as 6 hours as the Lock allows only one boat to traverse at a time. That night we had an Egyptian costume party and all of us who were part of the Nile cruise dressed in the best of their gallabeyas which is the traditional Egyptian dress and treated ourselves to some fine Egyptian dance and music which was preceded by a typical Egyptian meal.

 

The next morning we arrived at Luxor where we disembarked to take our tour to the necropolis or the City of the Dead on the West Bank of the Nile. On our agenda was to visit the Valley of the Kings, the temple of Queen Hatshepsut and the Colossi de Memnon. After having disembarked at Luxor, we traversed the imposing Luxor temple to cross the river Thebes to head towards the west of the Nile. The city of Thebes was the capital during the Middle Kingdom and the new Kingdom. Luxor is known as the city of palaces due to the innumerable temples. During the Greek time it was known as Thebes and is today known as the world's largest open air museum as it houses one third of the world's monument with the imposing Karnak Temples and Luxor Temple on the east of the river Nile.

 

The Greeks stayed here from 332 BC to 30 BC. After 30 BC it was the Romans who came here and they too called it Thebes. Luxor has been an important city from 1300 BC and at that time was the capital of Upper and Lower Egypt. The East of the Nile is called the East Bank and during the ancient time it was called the City of the Life and on crossing the Nile to the West Side is the City of the Dead. Therefore on the East side there are the cult temples whereas on the west side there are mortuary temples. The Cult temples i.e. the Karnak Temples and Luxor temple were built do pray inside during the time of the Pharaohs. Luxor is famous for its sugarcane as well as 10% of the region is into agriculture.

 

On traversing the Luxor temple, our Egyptologists told us that this temple was built to worship the god Amun Ra. At Luxor one can find the Luxor museum which houses Pharaonic relics from Luxor and the mummification museum where the mummification tools that the ancient physicians used, relics of mummies and paintings representing the religious funerary rituals. Unfortunately, visiting Luxor and Karnak Temples was not part of our agenda and I would strongly recommend especially those interested in Egyptian history to have a two days extended stay in Luxor as Luxor has lots to offer especially those who would like to get into the details of the historical importance of Luxor and its temples.

 

Our first halt at Luxor was at the Valley of the Kings where you find the tombs of the ancient Pharaohs. The tombs are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was Tutmose I, who decided to built his tomb here rather than at a funeral place as it was a secluded area. The architect, Ineni excavated the tomb in an isolated valley which was carved out of the rock and built a steep stairway leading down to the burial chamber. This trend set by Tutmose I was followed by all the successive Pharaohs and the highlight of the tour here is the Tomb of Ramses IX as it has the scenes from the Book of the Dead displayed in the form of pictures along the walls which lead to the tomb.

 

The other famous tomb is that of Tut ank Amon which was recently discovered in 1922 by Howard Carter and the remains of the tomb can be found at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The tomb is set to be dated back to 1352 BC. It was believed by the Phraoahs that the name inscribed outside the tomb would ensure that the soul would come down from heaven, come in contact with the body and that would help the body to come back to life as the Pharaohs were quite obsessed with the idea of the rebirth or life after death. Here at the Valley of the Kings one can find 62 tombs. These tombs were made in the valley unlike the Pyramids so that the robbers would not be able to discover the tombs and the treasures hidden beneath as was the case with the Pyramids. The tombs were made as their house of eternity and the painting within the tombs tells you what would the King be in his second life. All the hieroglyphics within the tomb are colourful especially those of Ramses IV and Ramses IX which we visited as part of our tour.

 

After the Valley of the Kings, we went to see the Valley of the Queens and the tomb of Queen Nefertari which is beautifully decorated with murals and inscriptions. Queen Nefertari was the most favourite queen of King Ramses II. The paintings on the wall in her tomb are very beautiful and fragile and thus only 150 tourists are allowed to see the tomb at any one given time. Our next stop was at the mortuary temple of Hatshepsut which is located at Deir el Bahari. Queen Hatshepsut was the daughter of Tutmose I and wanted to rule Egypt and she gave gold to the priests who made the story that Hatshepsut was born from the God Amun

 

She ruled Egypt for almost 19 years and she dressed like a man, wearing men's clothes and even wearing a false beard. The Hatshepsut Temple points towards the East and consists of a series of vast terraces which by means of a ramp lead to the sanctuary. This masterpiece rises in three broad columned terraces from the desert floor against a backdrop of a limestone cliff.

 

After Hatshepsut's death her son Tutmose III buried her and destroyed her body and the temple as he wanted to become King. So the temple has undergone 70% restoration. Our last stop on the West of the Nile was the Colossi de Memnon where there are two giant statues of Amenhotep II standing alone at a place that used to be the entrance to the city to scare the enemies and drive them away with their magic spell. The two giant statues are 20 metres high and 2 metres long and 1 metre thick and were cut out of single blocks of sandstone. The statues are partially damaged due to the earthquake in 27 B.C.

 
During those days , it was observed that these statues gave an indefinite prolonged sound at sunrise though later it was discovered that there was a big hole in one of the statues and the sound was created due to the wind passing through that hole which was later blocked. After this we headed to the East Bank and grabbed a quick bite at McDonalds before departing by road in a convoy to Hurghada which is a beautiful beach resort located on the Red Sea.
 

Vini has been one of the Faculty Members for the IATA/UFTAA and IATA/FIATA qualifications offered by IHCTM for over 10 years and she is also Director of COMPACT TRAVELS and part of the research team in planning unique itineraries for various clients. Here she narrates her first hand experience of Egypt as a family destination.