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The
temple at Kom Ombo is a Greek Roman temple. The temple
is believed to have been built on an old temple by Queen
Hatshepsut during the 18th Dynasty. The temple is
supposed to be as old as 200 BC and is dedicated to two
gods Sobek, the crocodile god who used to be worshipped
in the pre-dynastic times and the god Haroeris that is
Horus, the solar gold of war. The temple was constructed
at the time of Plotemis VII-XII and even today you can
see a crocodile mummy which is preserved in the chapel
of Hathor located at the right side of the temple
entrance.
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After
having soaked in some more history and having seen one of
the most amazing sunsets, we embarked on our boat to sail
to our next halt which would be early morning at Edfu to
see the Horus Temple. On embarking that evening, it was
Nubian night on the cruise boat and the Nubian dancers
enthralled us with their talent and it also gave us an
insight into the cultural life of the Nubians. The
following morning we moved to Edfu and at around 0700
hours we disembarked and took a horse carriage to visit
the temple of the Falcon headed god Horus. |
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Horu(s)
was originally the god of light whose eyes were
associated with the sun and moon. The Horus temple was
built during the reign of Ptolemy VI. Although the
temple is not one of the best preserved ones, it is
supposed to be the second largest temple after the
Karnak Temples which is at Luxor. The impressive feature
of the temple is that there are carvings and engravings
in hieroglyphics which is the ancient Egyptian script
and a large part of the same unfortunately has been
defaced over the years. At the entrance of the temple
are two very beautiful black granite statues on either
side of the entrance depicting Horus in the form of the
falcon. |
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After
spending an hour or so at the temple, we took the horse
carriage back to head towards our boat to reach in time
for a sumptuous breakfast before sailing further towards
Esna. We were
told that to cross the Esna Lock it would take as long
as 6 hours as the Lock allows only one boat to traverse
at a time. That night we had an Egyptian costume party
and all of us who were part of the Nile cruise dressed
in the best of their gallabeyas which is the traditional
Egyptian dress and treated ourselves to some fine
Egyptian dance and music which was preceded by a typical
Egyptian meal.
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The next
morning we arrived at Luxor where we disembarked to take
our tour to the necropolis or the City of the Dead on
the West Bank of the Nile. On our agenda was to visit
the Valley of the Kings, the temple of Queen Hatshepsut
and the Colossi de Memnon. After having disembarked at
Luxor, we traversed the imposing Luxor temple to cross
the river Thebes to head towards the west of the Nile.
The city of Thebes was the capital during the Middle
Kingdom and the new Kingdom. Luxor is
known as the city of palaces due to the innumerable
temples. During the Greek time it was known as Thebes
and is today known as the world's largest open air
museum as it houses one third of the world's monument
with the imposing Karnak Temples and Luxor Temple on the
east of the river Nile. |
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The Greeks stayed here from 332
BC to 30 BC. After 30 BC it was the Romans who came here
and they too called it Thebes. Luxor has been an
important city from 1300 BC and at that time was the
capital of Upper and Lower Egypt. The East
of the Nile is called the East Bank and during the
ancient time it was called the City of the Life and on
crossing the Nile to the West Side is the City of the
Dead. Therefore on the East side there are the cult
temples whereas on the west side there are mortuary
temples. The Cult temples i.e. the Karnak Temples and
Luxor temple were built do pray inside during the time
of the Pharaohs. Luxor is famous for its sugarcane as
well as 10% of the region is into agriculture.
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On
traversing the Luxor temple, our Egyptologists told us
that this temple was built to worship the god Amun Ra.
At Luxor one can find the Luxor museum which houses
Pharaonic relics from Luxor and the mummification museum
where the mummification tools that the ancient
physicians used, relics of mummies and paintings
representing the religious funerary rituals.
Unfortunately, visiting Luxor and Karnak Temples was not
part of our agenda and I would strongly recommend
especially those interested in Egyptian history to have
a two days extended stay in Luxor as Luxor has lots to
offer especially those who would like to get into the
details of the historical importance of Luxor and its
temples. |
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Our first
halt at Luxor was at the Valley of the Kings where you
find the tombs of the ancient Pharaohs. The tombs are
part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was Tutmose
I, who decided to built his tomb here rather than at a
funeral place as it was a secluded area. The architect,
Ineni excavated the tomb in an isolated valley which was
carved out of the rock and built a steep stairway
leading down to the burial chamber. This trend set by
Tutmose I was followed by all the
successive Pharaohs and the highlight of the tour here is
the Tomb of Ramses IX as it has the scenes from the Book
of the Dead displayed in the form of pictures along the
walls which lead to the tomb. |
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The other
famous tomb is that of Tut ank Amon which was recently
discovered in 1922 by Howard Carter and the remains of
the tomb can be found at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
The tomb is set to be dated back to 1352 BC. It was
believed by the Phraoahs that the name inscribed outside
the tomb would ensure that the soul would come down from
heaven, come in contact with the body and that would
help the body to come back to life as the Pharaohs were
quite obsessed with the idea of the rebirth or life
after death. Here at
the Valley of the Kings one can find 62 tombs. These
tombs were made in the valley unlike the Pyramids so
that the robbers would not be able to discover the tombs
and the treasures hidden beneath as was the case with
the Pyramids. The tombs were made as their house of
eternity and the painting within the tombs tells you
what would the King be in his second life. All the
hieroglyphics within the tomb are colourful especially
those of Ramses IV and Ramses IX which we visited as
part of our tour.
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After the
Valley of the Kings, we went to see the Valley of the
Queens and the tomb of Queen Nefertari which is
beautifully decorated with murals and inscriptions.
Queen Nefertari was the most favourite queen of King
Ramses II. The paintings on the wall in her tomb are
very beautiful and fragile and thus only 150 tourists
are allowed to see the tomb at any one given time. Our next
stop was at the mortuary temple of Hatshepsut which is
located at Deir el Bahari. Queen Hatshepsut was the
daughter of Tutmose I and wanted to rule Egypt and she
gave gold to the priests who made the story that
Hatshepsut was born from the God Amun |
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She ruled Egypt
for almost 19 years and she dressed like a man, wearing
men's clothes and even wearing a false beard. The Hatshepsut Temple points towards the East and consists
of a series of vast terraces which by means of a ramp
lead to the sanctuary. This masterpiece rises in three
broad columned terraces from the desert floor against a
backdrop of a limestone cliff. |
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After Hatshepsut's death
her son Tutmose III buried her and destroyed her body
and the temple as he wanted to become King. So the
temple has undergone 70% restoration. Our last
stop on the West of the Nile was the Colossi de Memnon
where there are two giant statues of Amenhotep II
standing alone at a place that used to be the entrance
to the city to scare the enemies and drive them away
with their magic spell. The two giant statues are 20
metres high and 2 metres long and 1 metre thick and were
cut out of single blocks of sandstone. The
statues are partially damaged due to the
earthquake in 27 B.C. |
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During those days , it was
observed that these statues gave an indefinite prolonged
sound at sunrise though later it was discovered that
there was a big hole in one of the statues and the sound
was created due to the wind passing through that hole
which was later blocked. After
this we headed to the East Bank and grabbed a quick bite
at McDonalds before departing by road in a convoy to
Hurghada which is a beautiful beach resort located on
the Red Sea. |
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Vini has
been one of the Faculty Members for the IATA/UFTAA and
IATA/FIATA qualifications offered by IHCTM for over 10
years and she is also Director of COMPACT TRAVELS and
part of the research team in planning unique itineraries
for various clients. Here she narrates her first hand
experience of Egypt as a family destination. |
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