Opportunities Today : February 2006 Issue

Knitted Fabrics

 

 

 

Knitting is the second most frequently used method of fabric construction. The popularity of knitting has grown tremendously in recent years because of the increased versatility of techniques, the adaptability of the many new manmade fibres, and the growth in consumer demand for wrinkle-resistant, stretchable, snug-fitting fabrics, particularly in the greatly expanding areas of sportswear and other casual wearing apparel. Today, the usage of knitted fabrics ranges from hosiery, sweaters, slacks, suits, and coats, to rugs and other home furnishings. Hand knitting was an early invention. The earliest known knitted fabric was a pair of thick, hand-knitted wool socks found in an Egyptian tomb, which probably dated back to the fourth century B.C.

 

But the art of knitting seems to have been perfected in Western Europe in the fifteenth century. Hand knitting spread rapidly throughout Europe within a few generations. Primitive needles of bone or wood were first used, producing a coarse mesh. The Spaniards began to use steel needles, which produced a closer mesh and a more evenly knit fabric. In 1589, the Reverend William Lee, an Englishman, invented the first knitting machine. The machine was seen by the strong guild of wool stocking hand knitters as a thread to their livelihood. Today, knitting is a complex industry, which has two main areas, each of which has its subdivisions of specializations. One area produces knitted goods for apparel manufacturers, for sewing centers for consumers, and for others. The other area produces completed apparels such as hosiery and sweaters. Knitted fabrics also give warmth because of the insulative air pockets contained in this type of construction.

 

Yet they are porous and provide “breathing” comfort because body movements cause the loops to expand and contract, thus pushing air through close-fitting garments. However unless the fabric is heavily napped or foam laminated, it is not windproof. These fabrics are very absorbent, light in weight, and wrinkle-resistant. It is usually unnecessary to iron them after packing and laundering. However they may shrink considerably more than woven fabrics unless special techniques and shrink proofing processes, such as Pak-nit or Permasized, are used.

 

Certain kinds of knitted fabric have one serious disadvantage: if one of the loops breaks, a hole is made, which starts a run. This can be eliminated by variation in the stitch, which protects the fabric from raveling if any single stitch is broken. Some knitted fabrics tend to lose their shape and sag. This tendency can be avoided by using a more closely constructed knit, giving the yarn a tighter twist, and using such special techniques as the double knit. The advantage of stretch ability in knitted fabrics is an important consideration where fit and comfort are concerned.