Opportunities Today : June 2006 Issue

Exploring Egypt the Compact Travels Way...by VINI MOTWANI... Director Compact Travels

 

The Pearl of the Mediterranean- Alexandria and bidding adieu to EGYPT

It was the last day of our trip and we got up early in the morning and checked out of our hotel to do a day trip to Alexandria-known as the Pearl of the Mediterranean. We left our hotel at around 7.00 am to head to the second biggest city in Egypt after Cairo and we arrived in about 3 hours at Alexandria.

 

Alexandria has a very European influence and is one of the most beautiful cities of Egypt. It is a year round destination and is located 225 kilometres from Cairo. Alexandria enjoys a very pleasant climate year round and during summers the Egyptians too love to come and spend some time in Alexandria. Our first impression of this 2300 year old city was simply spectacular. In a way it reminded me of Athens which we had visited in 2004 to see the Olympic Games as Alexandria is located on the other side of the Mediterranean Sea.

 

I would recommend a tourist to Egypt to atleast spend two nights in Alexandria as it has lots to offer as a city. The city itself is much older than Cairo and has been in existence since 332 BC. Alexandria is extremely rich in history and has a more Mediterranean ambience. Built on a small village called Rhakotis, it was once the capital of Greco Roman Egypt and today it is the second capital of Egypt after Cairo. It has a multitude of sandy beaches and once was known for its legendary light house which was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world located on the small island of Pharos which was off the city of Alexandria.


The lighthouse was the only wonder of the ancient world which had practical utility besides being an architectural elegance and the tallest building on Earth at that time. The Light House was used for 1500 years and was 150 metres high and had 3 floors and around the beginning of the 13th Century there was a huge tidal wave which destroyed the first two levels of the lighthouse and later when the big earthquake came, there was a huge crack in the centre of the lighthouse and it eventually collapsed. However, it did leave its impact from the linguistic angle as the word Pharos which is where this lighthouse was built finds a name in the dictionary of French, Italian and Spanish languages as it stands for lighthouse.

 

It is said that Alexander the Great came to Egypt's north coast for a vacation where he discovered a tiny fishing village looking out on a tiny island and he decided to transform this place into a city which would become a source of knowledge and light for the whole world and a city that would carry his name forever. Although Alexander never returned here, his passion for knowledge inspired Ptolemy I who first governed Alexandria to build a monumental library dedicated to intellectual and scientific pursuits.


It took almost 10 years to complete the ancient library known as the Biblioteca Alexandrina - a complex comprising of 3 buildings and comprised of over 900000 manuscripts which is equivalent of 25000 books written by the most renowned intellectuals and scientists. The original library was later destroyed by fire and there are stories that the library was burned during the war with Julius Caeser in 48 BC whilst some argue that it was destroyed or even burnt down when Arabs conquered Egypt in 642 AD. The only remains from the original collection are a few manuscripts which are on display at the Vienna Museum.

 

Later, the initiative was taken to rebuilt the library and in 2002, the library opened on the city's Corniche, around 200 metres away from the location of the ancient library. The total cost incurred to build the library was 179 billion dollars. The Biblioteca's slanted round design stands out amongst the buildings in that region with the main building in the shape of a half sun rising from the sea which implies that it is providing the light of knowledge to the world. The main library has 11 floors with seven above ground and four underground and houses 35000 books. We were unlucky to not have seen the Biblioteca from the inside as it was Ramadan and the library was closed for public viewing on the day we visited the city.

 

Our next halt was at the Montazah Palace and Gardens, the summer residence of the former royal family. Located on a high hill. This complex overlooks the most beautiful beach of Alexandria. In the area, there are two prominent buildings, Al-Haramlek and Al-Salamlek. Al-Salamlek is now a luxurious hotel where as Al-Haramlek has a casino on the ground floor and the upper floors there is a museum of the royal relics.


A walk around this area is indeed very relaxing and that is possible to do if you are staying a couple of days here in Alexandria. Close by you have the Helnan Palestine Hotel which is having a good view of the Mediterranean Sea. We took a high speed boat ride for 30 minutes which was for 100 Egyptian Pounds (Rs 800 approx) and we got a good view of the Hotel and the kids had a great time in the high speed boat.

 

Another important landmark of Alexandria is the Rosetta Stone. For thousands of years the Egyptian civilization used the language of hieroglyphics and later the language was abandoned in favour of Greek and Latin. As the Romans took over Egypt they couldn't understand hieroglyphics and this was a huge obstacle for anyone to understand Egyptian history and culture and after more than a thousand years when the French soldiers were fighting in Egypt, a French soldier found a flat block of black basalt at a place called Rosetta, very close to Alexandria. This stone had three sections of writing - one in hieroglyphics, the other called Demotic and one in Greek and this stone is known as Rosetta Stone and the inscriptions on this stone helped the scholar to understand the hieroglyphics. You can find the original stone today at the British Museum. Later in the day, we halted next at Pompei's Pillar. This Pillar which dominates the area dates back to the 3rd Century.

Pompei was a Greek and once there used to be a temple here and today you find remains with the pillar made of red granite and 25 metres in height. This place was completed destroyed in the 5th century by the Christians who wanted to get rid of Paganism in Egypt. The great pillar however survived along with a few sphinxes. Close to the Pompei's pillar there is the roman bath where once Cleopatra used to bathe. Our guide Randa gave us a brief and interesting history of Cleopatra VII who ascended the Egyptian throne when she was mere 17 years of age and she was the last pharaoh ruling Egypt between 51 and 30 BC. The interesting part of history was the birth of Julius Caesar and Cleopatra's son and how the word Caesarean came into existence. As Cleopatra had a small stomach they had to do cut open her stomach which today is called caesarean.

 

After Pompei's pillar we passed by the Roman amphitheatre before halting for a seafood lunch. Later in the day, we stopped by to see Fort Qaitbey which is located at the spot of the legendary lighthouse and is best seen from a distance. It is said that some of the stones of the fort are from the lighthouse especially the huge red-granite pillars. Thereafter we visited the Catacombs which dates back to the 1st and 2nd centuries and this catacomb was found by accident. This is one of the two catacombs in the world where the Greeks and Romans were buried, the other one can be found in Italy.


Known as the Kom-El-Shoqafa Catacomb, it is the largest roman cemetery and consists of 3 levels cut in the rock and is 100 feet deep. It is a combination of roman and pharonic art. The first chamber is called the Triclinium and was left unfinished. There are still bodies underneath the chambers and there was an attempt to excavate the place, however there was a risk of the whole catacomb caving in and hence the excavation wasn't carried out.

 

There are lots of places one can explore in and around Alexandria including the Graeco-Roman museum and a few lovely beaches along the north coast. Alexandria is a good place to shop especially for leather and we were short on time as we had to head back to Cairo. We left at 4.00 pm after a very interesting day in one of the most beautiful cities of Egypt. As our flight was almost after midnight and we had a few hours at our disposal, we went for a dinner on Aquarius - a floating restaurant where we experienced some Egyptian cuisine and we were entertained to some fine Nubian dance as well as belly dancing. We were lucky to be part of a celebration of an Egyptian wedding on board the Aquarius.

 

Though we were extremely exhausted after one of our longest days in Egypt, we thoroughly enjoyed it and there wasn't a single day which was filled with interesting experiences. Our only regret was that we couldn't have spent a few more days to explore much more of this wonderful country and whenever the next time we make another trip to Egypt, I will once again love to share my experiences with you.


I recall when we started COMPACT TRAVELS, our first destination that we took to promoting was Egypt and I strongly recommend you to include it in your list of destinations to visit in the immediate future - a destination which has the only surviving wonder of the ancient world, one of the most beautiful cities in Alexandria, a beach holiday experience in Hurghada or even Sharm-el-Sheikh, a great experience on the Nile cruise- you couldn't ask for anything better when planning a holiday.

 

Concluded.

 

Vini has been one of the Faculty Members for the IATA/UFTAA and IATA/FIATA qualifications offered by IHCTM for over 10 years and she is also Director of COMPACT TRAVELS and part of the research team in planning unique itineraries for various clients. Here she narrates her first hand experience of Egypt as a family destination.