Opportunities Today : March 2006 Issue

Exploring Egypt the Compact Travels Way...by VINI MOTWANI... Director Compact Travels

 

After having unraveled the mystery of the Pyramids and Sphinx we headed to a shop called Ani Papyrus which is in Giza to look at how the famous Papyrus paintings are made. Along the Pyramids Road, there are several such shops which sell the papyrus paintings which is a must buy souvenir from Egypt. It was indeed fascinating to know about how the papyrus paper is used and the first use of the papyrus dates back to 4000 BC. It was interesting to find out that the word paper is derived from Papyrus, even though papyrus is not paper.

 

The Papyrus stalks are taken out from the banks of the river Nile where they grow as a weed. The outer green skin is removed from the stalk and the inner pith of the plant is then cut into long thin strips and are pounded to break down into fibers. After soaking it in water for 3 to 4 days, the strips are cut to length and laid overlapping on a piece of cotton fabric. Here, we were told by the salesman who was demonstrating the process of how the papyrus is used for paintings, that cotton fabric too was first invented in Egypt. He continued that the strips are laid down alternatively in vertical and horizontal format to overlap and then sandwiched between two hard absorbent barriers which are later pressed for impact and then left to dry in the sun.


After this the papyrus is used for painting pictures by using various inks or paints and even today lot of tourists buy the painting comprising of ancient Egyptian scriptures known as Hieroglyphic. Hieroglyphic in fact, is the ancient form of Egyptian writing which is mainly found on the walls of the temples and is like a pictorial script. The hieroglyphic script can either be written from right to left, or left to right or in columns. The script looks pretty and we saw lot of these scriptures on the various temples we visited along the Nile. After picking up a few souvenir papyrus paintings, we went back to the hotel to retire early that evening as the following morning we had to leave at the wee hours to take our flight to Aswan. We bid adieu to Cairo where we would return after our Nile cruise and subsequent visit to Hurghada. We boarded our flight at 0500 hours on Friday morning to reach Aswan around 0700 hours.

 

On our arrival at Aswan we were told that we could check-in at Nile Delta (our cruise boat) only at 1200 noon, we were received by our guide for a city tour of Aswan. Aswan is known as Egypt’s sunniest southern city and has a population of 1 million and is the starting point for the Nile cruise which terminates at Luxor. The other option is to start the cruise at Luxor and end at Aswan.


Aswan is also the town from where one can take a short flight of around 20 odd minutes to visit the world renowned Abu Simbel temples. One can also visit Abu Simbel by road but it takes almost 3 hours one way and you would have to leave at 0400 hours in the morning to reach at 0700 and to be back at 1200 noon in Aswan. The temples at Abu Simbel, we were told, were built more than 3000 years ago and its main façade has four colossi with six colossal rock-cut statues. At Aswan, the Nile river is at its most beautiful and around Aswan one can do a lot of day excursions to visit the Philae Temple, the Botanical Garden, the Elephantine Island and even the Nubian Village.

 

As our ship would only be sailing at around 1300 hours the following day, we decided to take the boat to visit the Philae Temple that morning. Before that we visited the High Dam which was built way back in 1960 and on one side of the high dam you can get a picturesque view of Lake Nasser, the huge reservoir created when the High Dam was built in the south with the huge power station in the north. The High Dam today provides irrigation and electricity to most of Egypt and has stunning views of Lake Nasser on one side and the Nile river on the other.

 

Lake Nasser leads you to the famous temple of Abu Simbel and is considered to be the biggest artificial manmade lake in the world and is 500 kilometres long. It is 183 metres deep and you can find fish and crocodiles in Lake Nasser. Along the way, we also saw the Agha Khan Mausoleum which we once again had an opportunity to see later when we headed by boat on the following day to the Nubian Village. The Mausoleum is closed for tourism and you can take a felucca sail to see the museum from a distance. It is atop the hill at the West Bank of the Nile.

 

Agha Khan, the great leader of Islamic Sect used to visit Aswan every winter and he was buried in this magnificent Mausoleum. Later in the day, we also visited the Philae Temple, a Greek Roman temple, which is a world heritage site. This amazing temple was lifted from Biga island stone by stone and rebuilt on Agilika Island which is 500 metres away from Biga. This was done as most of the temple was submerged due to the flooding of the Nile for almost 12 years between 1960 and 1972. The temple was cut and shifted and in all they cut the temple into 40000 pieces and lifted it stone by stone and moved it to its new location. The temple is a religious temple and dedicated to Orisis, the king and the goddess Isis, who was the sister of Osiris and their son Horus. Isis is known as the mother of god and she had collected the pieces of her slain brother Osiris who was the King and made them into the first mummy.

The Philae temple is beautifully landscaped and as told by our guide, it matches the original format of the temple. Its various shrines and sanctuaries include the temple of Hathor- the goddess of love, music and dance and in Thebes also known as the goddess of death. The mythology of Isis and Osiris was quite intriguing. At night, you have the Sound and Light Show at Philae which is an experience to behold with the floodlit buildings silhouetted against the volcanic rocks and surrounding water.Later in the day, we checked into our cruise boat – the Nile Delta. This was my second cruise experience having been earlier on the Star Cruise from Singapore. The Nile Delta comprises of 5 decks and 69 junior suites.


The restaurant is on the lower deck with a few boutique shops and you have the main lobby and a few rooms as you enter the boat. The next level comprises of rooms and the library and Internet facility. The following deck comprises of a few rooms as well and a lounge bar with a fascinating panoramic view. Finally the open deck which is the sun deck has a swimming pool along with a bar alongside.

 

Each room is 21 sq metres fully furnished and I found it almost two and a half times the size of the balcony room on the Superstar Virgo. After having some good Italian food that afternoon, we took a siesta and the kids enjoyed themselves in the library which was alongside our room as the library not only had books but also a few games for kids as well. Later in the day, we sipped a nice warm cup of coffee in the evening chill of Aswan and then got off the boat to take a horse carriage ride across Aswan town through the narrow streets and we saw the magnificently lit Aswan mosque on the way. After our ride of around 90 minutes on the horse carriage which the kids enjoyed thoroughly, we returned to the boat and crashed out after dinner. It was indeed a long day for us having started in the wee hours of the morning from Cairo. The following morning after a sumptuous breakfast, we left for the Botanical Garden located on Kitchener’s Island where you find several species of tree planted by Lord Kitchener who had got them into Egypt from Sudan and across the world

 

There are more than 375 kinds of plants and trees. In 1896, Lord Kitchener used this island as the camping site for soldiers during the invasion of British in this part of the globe. Lord Kitchener took 2 years to plant a large variety of plants and trees comprising of hibiscus, olives and many more. We had a pleasant and relaxing walk within the Botanical Garden and it was an ideal place for us to get some pictures in the backdrop of plants and trees. We enjoyed some ice cream on the island and after having spent an hour or so, we headed to the Nubian Village.

We arrived at the Nubian Village after crossing the Elephantine Island. It is a must visit place for those who wish to know about the culture and life of the Nubians. We went into the house of a Nubian which is converted into a museum. We experienced the warm hospitality extended to us by the Nubians who were selling artifacts made by them. My 7 year old daughter spent some time in putting henna on her left arm and my son was awestruck seeing the baby crocodiles in a fish tank.


The Nubians generally like to keep crocodiles as pets and when they grow big, they go and leave them in Lake Nasser. The house of a Nubian is very artistically done with colourful paintings on the wall. We were taken around the Nubian House and thereafter the highlight for the kids was the 15 minute Camel Ride in the Nubian town.

 

The rest of the day we spent on the ship as it started sailing towards our first halt to witness the Kom Ombo Temple where we arrived at around 1630 hours that afternoon. At Kom Ombo, you find the temple of Horus and Sobek. Look out for the April issue of Opportunities Today for more about our visit to Kom Ombo and later to Edfu and the voyage across the Nile.


Vini has been one of the Faculty Members for the IATA/UFTAA and IATA/FIATA qualifications offered by IHCTM for over 10 years and she is also Director of COMPACT TRAVELS and part of the research team in planning unique itineraries for various clients. Here she narrates her first hand experience of Egypt as a family destination.