|
VISPI MISTRY is a
globe trotter and one of the esteemed clients of COMPACT TRAVELS
having travelled to Sri Lanka, Prague, Budapest and recently in
May to the Iberian Peninsular and Morocco. His fancy for new
destinations is a challenge to our team to go to various extents
to do intense research and his next jaunt is going to be the
Whisky Trail in Scotland this September. Although, COMPACT
TRAVELS was not offering packages to Scotland, clients like
Vispi have become an inspiration- so much that now COMPACT
TRAVELS boasts of being expert on advising people to visit
Scotland as the Director of Compact Travels has recently
completed a Destination Scots Specialist Program thus bringing
the total number of specialization to double digit if you
include Austria, Australia, Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary,
Jordan, Poland, New Zealand and South Africa - a rare feat by
any tour company in India. |
|
|
|
Besides, the above,
COMPACT TRAVELS also has exciting package options to Egypt,
Turkey, Greece, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Russia, Finland,
Scandinavia and many more emerging destinations |
|
|
|
VIVA ESPAÑA was the
call I gave to the charming Puja, the bright executive from
COMPACT TRAVELS who has planned and designed many of my foreign
jaunts in the last 2 years. Of course, if one goes to Spain then
neighbouring Portugal (they share 1300 kms of unguarded border,
sigh! wish we could have the same arrangement with Pakistan) and
Morocco across the straits of Gibraltar cannot be ignored. So
after many debates and innumerable emails our packed itinerary of
20 days was finalized and I am going to take you over an armchair
panoramic trip of my 20 days. We flew Air-France to Madrid landing
there around 3:00 p.m. - a quick fresh up and off to explore the
city. A short ride in the METRO and we landed up in “Gran Via: the
main street of Madrid, it's a real hotspot and a very happening
street with shops, hotels, theatres and cinema, “paella” and the
famous wine based drink the “sangria”. The Paella is a tomato
gravy based dish, a risotto which is served with boiled rice,
seafood and vegetable. You can get Meat Paella too. But seafood is
more authentic. |
|
|
|
Madrid - the capital of Spain
since 1561 is as beautiful as any European city. The same evening
we were off on our first Panoramic Coach Tour followed by the
local “Flamenco” dance performance and dinner. Flamenco is the
national dance of Spain and the dancers have those clappers in
their hands with which they click away to the beat of the music.
These performances can be enjoyed with a full dinner or “TAPAS”,
for the uniniated, Tapas means snacks and is equally expensive but
very tasty if you like cheese, fish and dry meat. |
|
|
|
The next morning we
left for our 3-day seat-in-coach package tour of Portugal. The
drive to Lisbon from Madrid (approx 650 kms) took 8 hours with a
lunch halt at a small town called Trujillo with an impressive
square called Mayors' Square. All towns in Spain and Portugal have
these squares, which are the beehive of commercial and tourist
activities. They all are dotted with shops and usually have
fountains and/ or statues. The whole atmosphere with the cobbled
by lanes and old well preserved houses transports you four hundred
years back in time and this is one thing we sorely miss in India. |
|
|
|
LISBON is one of
the most beautiful cities in Europe and a first class
trans-oceanic port. It stretches along the northern length of the
banks of the River Tejo estuary, occupying seven hills amongst
which Monsanto stands out, with its height of 226 metres.
It was a former Phoenician colony and Roman Capital of Lusitania,
being called Felicitas. Julia in honour of Julius Caesar. The city
was devastated by the barbarian invasions and in the 5th Century
was converted into a stronghold for the Visigoths. The Arabs
conquered it in 714 and in the XII century it was taken by
Christian King Alfonso.
The next morning we
were on a tour of the city which included the tower of Belem, the
Hieronomyte Monastery and the 'Padrao dos Descrobimentos' which is
a modern structure built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of
Portugal explorers discovery of the new world. Lisbon is on the
mouth of the river Tejo very close to where it meets the Atlantic
Ocean. On our entry to Lisbon we traversed the longest bridge in
Europe - the Vasco da Gama Bridge with a length of 17 kms built
across the river. The Tower of Belem, built between 1515 and 1521
on the bank of the river Tejo, is a landmark of the city. It was
built by the then King Manuel to control the entrance and exit of
the city of Lisbon through the water route. |
|
|
|
On the opposite
bank of the river is the Monument of Christ The King. It is a
replica of the famous one in Rio De Janeiro and is an impressive
28 meters tall. The view of the Monument at night is simply
breathtaking.
In the afternoon we took an optional tour to 3 lovely nearby towns
of Sintra, Cascais and Estoril. Sintra is located on the northern
slope of the Serra de Sintra (mountain), between cliffs, woods and
natural springs - this town is a haven of peace and greenness. It
became one of the favourite place of retreat for the Portuguese
Monarchs and welcomed the most outstanding Portuguese people from
the world of Arts, such as Luis de Camões, Gil Vicente or João de
Barros. In fact, the feeling that one gets on walking around the
streets in the old town is that it is a town of artists, because
of the amount of handicraft and antique shops that are found with
each step. |
|
|
|
The heart of the
Vila Velha (old town) of Sintra, declared Heritage of Humanity by
UNESCO in 1995, is dominated by the Paco Real (Royal Palace), with
its two high and strange cone shaped chimneys. Its construction
was carried out in two stages: the first in the reign of João I,
at the beginning of the XV century, when they built the bulk of
the building, including the main block and the large kitchen under
the chimneys which kept the utensils used for preparing the Royal
banquets in olden times; the second, at the beginning of the XVI
century, during the reign of Manuel I, who increased it by adding
various parts and enriching the interior of the palace. On the
inside, the most significant collection of Islamic mosaics in the
world has been preserved, which in the main adorn - the Sala dos
Árabes, the Chapel and the Sala Das Sereias (mermaids). But in the
building, the Sala dos Brasões (arms) stands out more than
anything else. The vaulted ceiling is decorated with hunting dogs,
which support the coat of arms; the Sala dos Cisnes (swans), with
its wonderful craftsmanship, the Sala Das Pegas (parrots), whose
ceiling is painted with these birds and who carry on their pink
beaks the word “por bem” (for good). It is said that João I
uttered them when he was surprised by the queen as he was kissing
a lady in waiting and so, to put an end to the pieces of gossip,
ordered the painting of the vaulted ceiling with as many parrots
as there were ladies in waiting in the court. |
|
|
|
On the Estoril
Coast, a little more than a dozen kilometers from Lisbon, one of
the most outstanding Portuguese tourist areas can be found. Known
as 'the area of the two springs' due to its microclimate, warm in
summer and pleasantly sunny the rest of the year, the coast of
Estoril starts at Carcavelos and goes to Guinos, along a line of
sea blue, which continues to gently rub the fine white sand of the
beaches. There are, however, two towns that shine in this place on
the Atlantic coast: Estoril and Cascais. Estoril was formerly a
fishing village, barely known for the curative virtues of its
thermal waters, but it has become a cosmopolitan place frequented
by the aristocracy, full of big houses, modern apartments and
luxury hotels. It's elegant international clientele has the
opportunity to practice sports such as golf, tennis and horse
riding, or go to the Autodrome where the great Formula 1 Grand
Prix is held. It also has a school for drivers, which attracts
people from home and abroad. At night the Casino, which is high up
in the central part surrounded by gardens, offers in its rooms all
types of European and American gambling. |
|
|
|
Enroute we also
passed the Cabo da Roca lighthouse this is the western most point
of Europe and a must visit for those interested in saying “I have
been there”. Cascais was an outstanding port which the prehistoric
people - the Romans, Visigoths and Arabs enjoyed, as it has a very
protected bay. Cascais achieved its independence at the same time
as Lisbon and was granted the title of “Villa” in the middle of
the XIV century. It’s beginning as a centre for tourism and
holidays started in the decade of 1870, when King Luis I converted
the XVII century fortress, which was built on a rocky promontory,
into a summer palace. One wing of this building is still used as
the summer residence of the President of Portugal today. |
|
|
|
On our last day in
Lisbon, we visited Fatima - the world famous holy shrine of the
Catholic faith where the lady appeared to 3 little children. Back
in Madrid the next day, we visited the famous Plaza Mayor - this
breathtaking square closed with elegant buildings built at the
turn of the XVII century, a fully paved 16000 sq.mtrs area which
at the time was big enough to hold 1/3rd of the population of
Madrid. In the centre of the square is the impressive statue of
Philip III built in 1613.
Three days are not
enough to see this wonderful city but one cannot come back without
seeing the PRADO museum - a real treasure chest of art. It has
been the greatest collection of Spanish paintings in the world
ranging from the XII to the XIX century. Over 7000 paintings in
the possession of the museum can only be exhibited in rotation as
there is enough space to exhibit only 1300 paintings at a time.
The originals of all Spanish masters - Goya, Greco, Velazquez as
well as other great European painters like Rubens, Rembrandt
Titian and a host of other masters can be found there. |
|
|
|
Another must see of
course is the magnificent Real Palace (Real=Royal in Spanish), the
elegance and splendour of the rooms will fulfill all expectations.
No visit to Spain can be complete without seeing a Bullfight and
much over the protest of the ladies of my group (Incidentally, I
was the only guy) we went to the fight in the biggest bullring in
Spain, which is in Madrid. The stadium with a capacity of 23000
seats was overflowing with locals going hoarse and applauding the
bullfighters skill and dexterity as they speared one bull after
another - totally six bulls went down in the entire evening. Of
course to us Indians it is a stomach churning and bloody gory
sight. But an experience not to be missed. We also made a full
day trip to Toledo, 70 kilometres from Madrid. Toledo Still
protected behind its ancient walls with nine gates, reached by a
fine Roman bridge, the Puente de Alcantara, watched over by the
Castillo de San Servando, Toledo has always played a foremost role
throughout the different stages of history in the Iberian
Peninsula, having been inhabited by the Romans who built a
fortress on the hill dominating the River Tagus by Visigoths,
Moors (who occupied the city in 711), Christians (after Alphonse
VI took it over in 1085) and Jews. It was the Jews, in fact, who
contributed greatly to the economical and artistic splendour of
Toledo. During all these years they were able to live freely in
the flourishing city: evidence of this is seen in the eight
beautiful synagogues that adorned the city with their elegant
architecture, two of which still stand out: the ancient Sinagoga
de Santa Maria and the famous Sinagoga del Transito. |
|
|
|
Capital of the
kingdom for a long time, frequently but unsuccessfully besieged by
the Arabs, Toledo lived for centuries in the productive atmosphere
of wide-spread and tolerant cosmopolitanism, at least until the
end of the XV century, when the Jews were expelled following a
period of veiled crisis resulting in considerable bloodshed.
However the most stunning building in Toledo is its Cathedral.
Modestly speaking I have personally seen many cathedrals in
various cities in Europe including St.Peters in the Vatican but
this magnificent edifice is one of the finest that I have ever
seen. The building of which commenced 800 years ago and has
architecture of various styles over the centuries, the interiors
of which is incredibly rich and sumptuous with the magnificent
choir-stalls in carved mahogany wood, the chapter room with 16th
century frescos and the vestry frescoed by Luca Giordano has
masterpieces by Greco, Titian and Goya is simply awesome and make
one gaze in open mouthed wonder - a must see on any Spanish
itinerary. |
|
|
|
Toledo also is very
famous for its highly skilled craftsmen who make exquisite swords
and daggers. These are forged and engraved exclusively by hand
following techniques and procedures handed down from generations.
Also equally famous is the art of embellishing steel plates with
fine 24 carat gold to create stunningly beautiful jewellery and
other artefacts, called Damascene art.
Lastly, the pastries and cakes - the typical sweet of Toledo is
Marzipans - a superb delicacy made of sugar and almonds. The word
Marzipan comes from the Arabic work 'Mahasapan' which the Arabs
called the boxes used to store sweetmeats and spices. After Madrid and
Toledo, we flew to the Catalan north of Spain - Barcelona where
the 1992 Olympic Games were held. This vivacious city of Catalunya,
boasts of one of the most exotic structures: The Sagrada Familia,
which means the Holy Family. This imposing edifice built towards
the end of the 19th century by Antoni Gaudi - one of the greatest
architects of our time. |
|
|
|
This is another must see on your Spanish
visit. To get a breathtaking panoramic view of Barcelona take the
cable car from Christopher Columbus square - the most touristy
spot, to Mount Juic where the Olympic stadium is also located.
Other magnificent not to be missed structures are The Triumphal
Arch and the monumental fountain both built in 1888 for the
universal exhibition. Another beautiful spot is the old
fishermen's village now called the Barceloneta - a pleasant lively
district where cafés, restaurants and fishing vessels abound. After a couple of
days in Barcelona we flew down south to Costa Del Sol. This
beautiful seaside region is world famous for its beaches. The
first experience of this laid back seaside region hit us when we
had to wait for 45 minutes at the Malaga airport for our pickup.
But after reaching our hotel 'Marina Sur' and seeing the
breathtaking view from our 9th floor room all was forgiven. We
were staying in the locality called 'Torremolino' and this
wonderful place was in two words - a Shoppers Paradise selling
fabulous leather goods and clothes at very reasonable rates. Lucky
me!! |
|
|
|
Our next three days
were very hectic with full day trips to Granada, Seville and yes
the Rock of Gibraltar. Granada is an unparalleled city, protected
in the North by the majestic Sierra Nevada and its high peaks,
snow capped until Spring, and facing south towards the warmest sea
of all Spain, the delightful Costa del Sol. Furthermore, Granada
has an abundance of water, which rushes down the mountain sides
before running into the thousand of streams that make their way
around palaces and courtyards, gardens and squares. This element
was particularly appreciated by the Arabian dynasties that were
the first to give the city its sparkling splendour. Granada is
Alhambra and Alhambra is Granada. Rising above the red hills, the
royal palace of Alhambra stands proud and eternal - one important
architectural structures of the middle ages and the finest example
of Islamic art left in the western world. |
|
|
|
The gardens of the
palace are well maintained with abundant flowers and fruit trees.
I learnt an interesting piece of information here: did you know
that there are two types of oranges, one variety to eat and the
other to make Orange Marmalade! Granada also has a beautiful
Cathedral, which unfortunately was closed for restoration, and we
couldn't see it. The other interesting facets of Granada are the
Spanish Gypsies who even today live in the caves of the Sierra
Nevada Mountains. The caves are called 'Cuevas'. Unfortunately our
tour didn't include a visit to their area. |
|
|
|
After Granada, the
next day was Seville. According to tradition, Seville was founded
by Hercules who appears to have played a very active role in the
many ancient legends concerning the origins of Andalusia.
Prose-like verses narrate of a prosperous Phoenician settlement
occupied first by the Greeks and then by the Carthaginians,
followed by the Romans. In effect, Seville simply followed the
same fate as most of the large cities in this region: after being
conquered by the Visigoths who made it the capital of their
kingdom, it was conquered by the Arabs in 712 and flourished and
grew under their domination until it could rival the nearby
Cordoba in size and splendour. During the XIII century, King
Ferdinand III triumphantly took over, and was ultimately buried
here, leaving his emblems forever in the city. In the XV century,
the Catholic Monarchs established their court here in the old
Moorish buildings. However, it was the Discovery of America and
the consequent, expanding whirlwind of trade and commerce that
brought Seville to the height of glory, and to a considerable
increase in population. The dreadful plague epidemic in 1649,
however, was the start of a slow but progressive decline from
which the city has never fully recovered, even though it still
preserves traces of its past glory and maintains its
unquestionably lively culture, besides continuing in its role as
administrative capital of the region, headquarters of the
autonomous government and focal point of its social and political
unrest. |
|
|
|
Our last day in
Cost del Sol was the trip to The Rock of Gibraltar. This famous
piece is in Gibraltar, which is the last bastion of Britains
colonial past held on by them and inspite of the ridiculous visa
charge of UK (Rs.6500/- for a six month visa), how could I miss
when I have always prophetically said “The Rock of Gibraltar is an
armchair compared to my wife’s steely resolve”. This very touristy
little town of Gibraltar is a walkover from the Spanish coastal
town of Algericas about 150 kilometres from Malaga. The Rock,
which in itself is a huge, hill approximately 4000' high towers
over and dominates the entire town.
A drive onto the rock gives on a clear vision of the Coast of
Africa - a mere 15 miles away. Hidden in the rock are the famous
Stalaguire and Stalagmite caves called the St. Michael's caves,
which are a truly awe-inspiring site. The town of Gibraltar is a
duty free shoppers paradise with half the shops owned by Sindhis
and Punjabis. The next day, we took the ferry to cross over to the
African continent which was a mere 45 metres away landing at
Tangiers - the northern most town of Morocco.After spending a
fortnight in Exotic Spain and Portugal, going to Morocco is
similar to drinking Vinicola no: 7 (no disrespect meant to the
Goan Port), after downing a 15 year old bottle of Porto from
Portugal. They are two different continents, countries and
culture, can you believe it that only 15 miles of water separates
them?? |
|
|
|
We took a 4 nights
package, which took us to Tangiers, Rabat, Casablanca Marrakesh
and Fez. After a panoramic tour of Tangiers where we saw the
meeting point of the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea, a
lovely photo spot, proceeded to Rabat, which is the current
capital of Morocco. The two impressive structures in the town are
the Royal Palace and the Mausoleum of the current King’s Father
Mohammed V. It is a masterpiece of Hispano Moresque architecture
and was built in 1971. The palace too is an impressive structure
from outside. All the towns in Morocco have within them a
fortified walled city called the Medina, which means old town/city
in Arabic.These Medinas are totally self-sufficient townships by
themselves inhibited by citizen numbering anywhere between 100000
to 300000. The one in Rabat had 150000 inhabitants. A quick walk
through them showed us the local way of life.
After a long day we reached Casablanca. This city has been made
famous by the Hollywood movie of 1939 starring Humphrey Bogart and
goes by the name of the city. Situated halfway between Fez and
Marrakesh, Casablanca is the largest city in the kingdom of
Morocco. The other important cities are far behind both as regards
population and economic importance. Over ten percent of the
population of the country lives in this city, which contains most
of the country's industrial, financial and economic activities. |
|
|
|
In the course of
the last decades, Casablanca has developed considerably. While the
population numbered 250000 at the beginning of the century, it
currently counts over three million souls. The demographic growth
has been on the increase ever since it was founded.
Casablanca has impressive modern buildings and parks with the Part
of the Arab League - a really magnificent one created 100 years
ago. The King Hassan II mosque also is an impressive structure.
From Casablanca we proceeded to Marrakesh where we were put up in
a 5 Star Hotel. Marrakesh is one of the four imperial cities of
Morocco. Capital of the Almoravid and Almohad dynasties, it was
subsequently abandoned by the Merinids. The Saadian brought it
back into vogue, but the Alaouites, while still concerned with its
development and progress, preferred Fez, Meknès or Rabat as the
capital of the kingdom. |
|
|
|
The city is
important because of its geographical position where the north and
south of the country converge, not far from the Sahara and the
Atlantic branch out towards Agadir, Casablanca, Fez or Meknès.
Moreover, Marrakesh faces onto the mountain slope, opening itself
towards the Sahara through the Tizi N'Test Pass and the Tizi
N'Tichka. The city has an impressive gate called the Bab Agnaou
gate built in 1150. Other impressive structures are the tombs of
the Saadian Sultans built in the 16th Century. In the night we
attended a local folk show called the 'Fantasia'. As with all
Arabs, the Moroccans too are skilled horsemen and showed us their
exemplary horsemanship which was truly spectacular.
The next day we proceeded to Fez, our last stop in Morocco. Fez is
situated 60 Kilometers from Meknès. Fez has various claims to
nobility as one of the most prestigious cities in the Muslim
world, for centuries a centre for culture and religion, the
melting pot of the Maghreb civilization. Moreover, Fez is the
oldest of the imperial cities and the capital of the first Arab
dynasty of Morocco. |
|
|
|
In an attempt to
fully comprehend Fez is to visit its Medina. The Fez Medina is the
oldest and the biggest in Morocco housing more than 350000
inhabitants. It has over 10000 streets and by lanes and one would
surely get lost if there were no local guide. In the night we went
to see a belly dance show, where they had grandmothers for belly
dancers. Oh!! Please don't even dream about seeing belly dancing
in Fez.
The last morning we were up at 6:00 a.m. to go back to Spain.
Driving through winding mountainous terrain to the Spanish
territory in Africa called Soeta from where we crossed to
Algericas in Spain.
The next two days involved going from Malaga to Madrid to Paris
and finally Mumbai where we landed after circling 1 hour in the
air to get a landing slot. Did I hear someone in the plane mutter
“Be it ever so humble, there's no place like…Mumbai”. |
|
|
|