The KD cruises
offers daily service to explore the wonderful Rhine Valley with
its good wines, historic villages, beautiful castles and stately
homes covering 65 kilometres of the most stunning scenery on
both banks of the Rhine. After a short and wonderful stay in
Ruedesheim, we boarded the KD cruise at 1115 hours which arrived
into St.Goar in around 1 hour 40 minutes and en route crossing
the wonderful towns of Bingen, Assmanhausen, Lorch and
Bacharach. The good thing is that if you are travelling on Rail
Europe and on the German Rail Pass, it is valid for travel on
the KD Rhine river cruises as well. En route to St.
Goar we were able to see some stunning castles such as the
Stahleck Castle, a 12th Century castle near Bacharach which was
built on the orders of the Archbishop of Cologne and overlooks the
Rhine and Loreley valley. It was destroyed in the late 17th
Century and later built in the early 20th Century and is now a
hotel. As we sailed along, we arrived at the most photographed
castle on the Rhine - the Pfalz Castle. This castle, built in the
13th Century on the river bed near the town of Kaub, was an
ancient toll booth of sorts and made the town of Kaub one of the
wealthiest on the river along with the Gutenfels Castle, which is
now a hotel. |
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When boats would approach, the Pfalz Castle would
raise the chains and on paying a toll, the boats could pass
without a problem or else the boats were seized and the crew was
put on a raft in the well of the Pfalz Castle. The good thing
about the Rhine cruise experience is that as you pass along you
are narrated these interesting stories about each of these amazing
castles and towns that you pass along the way. Next, we passed
along the Schonburg Castle, now a famous hotel but once was called
the most beautiful refuge of Rhine Romanticism.
Onwards we cruised along to the region of Loreley - a 433 feet
high slate cliff near the town of St.Goar where we were to
disembark and spend a couple of hours in this town of the
Rheinfels Castle - the largest and most imposing castle on the
Rhine. On arrival we boarded the Castle Express which took us up
to the Rheinfels Castle from the town centre. It is a train on
wheels and goes through the Market Place. The Castle Express
operates from 1st April until 31st October and costs 3 Euros for a
round trip to and from the Castle for an adult and 2 Euros for a
child. It operates every 25 minutes from the St. Goar "Martkplatz"
and the Rheinfels Castle car park and is a good way to go up to
the castle. |
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The town of St.
Goar was named after the Saint, who built a chapel and lived as a
hermit during the 6th Century on the site of the Stiftskirche or
the Collegiate Church today. Before 765, the hermitage of St.Goar
became one of Germany's earliest monasteries. The Rheinfels Castle
was built in 1245 by Count Diether V von Katzenelnbogen to protect
the St.Goar tax collectors and soon developed into one of the
mightiest fortresses in the Middle Rhine region. You can do the
castle tour on your own and get a route description from the
tourist information office. The sheer size of the ruins as well as
the labyrinth of trenches and tunnels, makes a visit to the castle
an interesting experience. The town of St. Goar is also worth
exploring and there is good news for our Indian guests - you can
get Indian food in St. Goar and there is a fantastic property
where you can stay which overlooks the Rhine, the Rheinfels Hotel
which interestingly is managed by an Indian who was courteous
enough to make us have some good masala tea along with gulab
jamuns (Indian desserts) during our short visit to the hotel
property. The Romantikhotel Schloss Rheinfels is a good option for
honeymooners as you can experience a dream stay at the Castle
Hotel overlooking the Loreley Valley. Not too far from St.Goar is
Oberwesel which is merely 14 kilometres away and is also an
exciting holiday destination with various accommodation options
from youth hostels and camping to guest houses and hotels. |
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After a cup of
masala tea, we boarded the KD cruise to head towards the last leg
of our Rhine cruise and on to Koblenz where we were to arrive in 2
hours 15 minutes and part of the Romantic Rhine route with a wide
range of castles along the way. As the cruise boat started off
from St. Goar, on the other side of the Rhine, at a distance was
the Cat Castle situated on a rocky mountain and now is a privately
owned property. Further down there was the imposing Stolzenfels
Castle which was built by Karl Friedrich as a 19th Century palace
as an epitome of Rhine Romanticism. The castle with the yellow
facade can be visited to see the original furnishings as well as
the collections of armour and weapons. As we were approaching
Koblenz, besides the stunning scenery of wonderful buildings and
castles, we came across a building which had Konigsbacher written
on it and it is a brewery that makes beer and situated close to
Koblenz and sells its products to chains of stores and
supermarkets across Germany. |
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We arrived at
Koblenz late in the evening where we were to take a short stroll
around town and were received by Kerstin Handwerk from Koblenz
Touristik. The city of Koblenz is where the Moselle River empties
into the Rhine and on our arrival we first walked to the German
Corner which has an imposing statue of Emperor Wilhelm. The
"Deutsch Eck" or the German Corner is where the Rhine and Moselle
rivers meet at one of Germany's very picturesque cities. Koblenz
is famous for its fine wines from the vineyards that slope along
the Moselle and is a city which has an interesting history of
Empress Augusta in whose name a special Festival is celebrated
every year. The Romans founded the city 2000 years ago and called
it "apud confluentes" or "at the confluence" signifying the
confluence of the two rivers.
The city comprises of romantic
narrow streets, historic squares and intertwined alleys.
Delightful corners and open squares, proud patrician houses and
courtyards as well as distinguished old churches are some of the
other highlights. Koblenz is a city of lovers of music, art and
theatre and is home to several museums, art galleries and
exhibitions. The most impressive part of the city besides the
German Corner is the 34 kilometre long promenade along the banks
of the Rhine and the green areas of the city make it worthwhile to
at least spend a night to explore the wine, castles and the old
town of Koblenz. We had to head back to Frankfurt and we took the
train back the same evening as we were heading to the region of
Baden Wurrttemberg and one of the southernmost cities located at
close proximity to the borders of France and Switzerland –
Freiburg, on the western edge of the Black Forest. |
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The following
morning we boarded our train for Freiburg and en route we stopped
at the University town of Heidelberg. On arrival at Heidelberg, we
left our luggage at the luggage locker and took a taxi to the city
centre where we were greeted by an enterprising Charlotte Frey, an
American now based out of the wonderful town of Heidelberg which
is famous for its castle, the old quarter and also for being
Germany's oldest University town. We started our tour from
Lowenbrunnen - the Lion Fountain close to the University Square.
Heidelberg has been an inspiration for artists, poets, writers and
composers and is the centre of Romanticism and is a must visit for
the honeymooner not only for the stunning beauty, the youthful
town and its cosmopolitan flavour but also for the Cafe Knosel
which has an interesting story of Heidelberg Student's Kiss.
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We started our tour
with the oldest University of Germany - the Ruprecht Karl
University of Heidelberg which was founded in 1386 when Heidelberg
was a little fishing village. Today the town gets 30000 students
and one out of every 5 persons in Heidelberg is a student which
brings the exuberance and youth to this wonderful town comprising
of two mountains, a castle, a University, the Neckar River which
flows into the mighty Rhine and an old town. The University is
easily identifiable by the clock tower and although due to our
short stop in Heidelberg we weren't able to go inside the Old
University, we had the opportunity of visiting the Students'
Prison which is located at the back of the Old University and a
prison where the students loved to go. The prison, which was
operational until 1914, was a place where students were punished
for common offences like disturbing the peace or excessive
drinking at night, insulting official authorities and so on. In
fact during those days no one wanted to leave Heidelberg
University until they spent a few days in the Students' Prison as
they were extremely happy to be there. It did not surprise us on
seeing the prison as there was graffiti all around, the walls were
decorated with silhouettes and artwork and the story goes that the
students came from very wealthy, affluent and protected families. |
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They were
Germany's elite who used to study here with a very disciplined
life and they used to create a ruckus here in the University and
disturb the peace of the town and once reported they would be
imprisoned. The first three days they were served just bread and
water to sober up and if they were kept for a longer period, like
a week or so, they were allowed to attend lectures, visit their
friends and also have food and wine sent in. There was a wire on
the ceiling and on pulling it the jailer would come and take the
order. So if you had a colleague in the neighbouring cell who was
serving his 8th day and you had just arrived, he would share the
stuff with you and no one wanted to miss this great party. The
only restriction was that the prison was for young men only and
not for girls studying at the University. Next we visited the
University Lecture Hall which we were fortunate to see as it was
open for visiting. It was an extreme contrast to the prison cell
and the lecture hall is even used today and is very impressive.
Special lectures and graduation ceremonies are conducted here even
today. The hall is in Neo-Renaissance style and it did not
surprise us that the University is associated with over 29 Nobel
Prize Laureates and is consistently ranked amongst Europe's top
Universities and for those pursuing their Ph. D. |
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Next we stopped to
see the impressive Catholic Baroque Church which was recently
repainted white. The next stop was at Heidelberg's most famous
building that Louis XIV didn't destroy and to find out about it
and also about Student’s Kisses you will have to wait until our
next issue. |
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To be continued |
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